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  Surf events 2006
Surfology
Surfing basics
Your first board
  Wave conditions
SAS
 
 

surfing conditions - anatomy of a wave

surf conditions

Waves begin way out in the ocean, strong winds blowing on the surface of the water creating ocean swells. These swells then travel great distances until they hit the shallow coastline becoming strong powerful breaking waves. It is these big breaking waves that can be dangerous to the unwary. Big waves frequently wash unsuspecting visitors off rocks along our rugged coastline. Don't ignore potential the ocean. Treat it with respect.

Anatomy of a wave
face - the front part of a wave
curl - the breaking part of a wave where it literally spills over itself. The bit that curls down towards the trough
section - part of the curl line. It is the bit that drops down ahead of the main curl. You will know it when you see it
lip - this is the very tip of the cresting wave that is in the process of curling downward.
wall - the part of the wave that has still to break. As the word suggests it is the inside wall of the wave
pocket - this is where you want to be. Just ahead of the breaking wave in the pocket
trough - the bottom of the wave
whitewater - this is the final part of the wave. Frothy and white.

 

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